I love my hiking boots – not a single blister!
I am getting tired of wearing the same smelly clothes
I still sometimes feel bad about being last in line – just can’t keep up with the crowd and even though Javier says slowly, slowly, his definition of slowly doesn’t seem to be as slow as what I am doing….
Today we leave at 8A for the Santa Teresa Valley. It is mostly downhill though in Peru if you want to go down you also have to go up a lot. This is our only day of rain – a drizzle requiring some rain gear but not a big deal. We leave Colpa Lodge and go back down to the river then up the steep hill again the way we came in yesterday. We trek across a field and over a stream. We walk and walk and then look across at the very same lodge we slept in, across a gorge from where we are. Maybe someday a bridge will be built, but then how sad to lose the time hiking! The views of the hills, the rushing waters of the river, the sky clearing to blue – this is becoming a beautiful day. The scenery is lush and there are banana and coffee trees, and lots of orchids and bamboo – but still no humming birds or parrots. Our cook has come up from behind and forged ahead so lunch is waiting when we meet up at the clearing around 1230P. The toilet tent is a real luxury, and the grass seems so soft I begin to take off my boots – but Javier scolds me back into them with warnings of round worm or some such parasite– ew!
Other high points today - there are some scary bridges I need help crossing. Once Javier almost goes over the edge trying to help me and I see our lives flash before my eyes. Yikes.
There is a bull being tugged to market along our same path by two men who frequently stop to rest and drink some sort of alcohol they have along, which then requires a bit of sleep before proceeding. They have to pass us several times, and that bull is not kidding around!
This afternoon we reach an actual road where a real van meets us (it seems strange!). There is a lot of interesting maneuvering as our gear is switched from horse to van, and then a little ceremony (always involving coca leaves) to say goodbye to our horsemen who have been terrific hauling our gear around. The van is a bit rundown – the back windows are all cracked and held together with some kind of tape. We can’t believe they can fit everything on the roof rack but indeed they pile it all on (as the van sinks lower to the ground). Then we all climb in, Augusto (the cook) too – and one of the horsemen climbs to the roof to hitch a ride… I can’t believe this vehicle can withstand all the weight but it does. After a short drive we are dropped at the trail head leading to our final lodge. Many porters appear to take our bags It is a humbling experience to struggle with walking uphill while sandal clad men and women are hauling our 30 pound duffels and tearing up the path, leaving us in the dust. Along the way there are banana trees and coffee plants, and some Inka steps for us to climb. After about 30 minutes we arrive at Lucma Lodge where our bags are already placed in our rooms waiting for us. No hot tub here, but it is warmer so we do not need it to take the chill off. This lodge is lovely, maybe our favorite. We are down to 2185 meters altitude, about 7,000 ft. Tonight everyone has wine or beer and even pisco and grappa…
I am getting tired of wearing the same smelly clothes
I still sometimes feel bad about being last in line – just can’t keep up with the crowd and even though Javier says slowly, slowly, his definition of slowly doesn’t seem to be as slow as what I am doing….
Today we leave at 8A for the Santa Teresa Valley. It is mostly downhill though in Peru if you want to go down you also have to go up a lot. This is our only day of rain – a drizzle requiring some rain gear but not a big deal. We leave Colpa Lodge and go back down to the river then up the steep hill again the way we came in yesterday. We trek across a field and over a stream. We walk and walk and then look across at the very same lodge we slept in, across a gorge from where we are. Maybe someday a bridge will be built, but then how sad to lose the time hiking! The views of the hills, the rushing waters of the river, the sky clearing to blue – this is becoming a beautiful day. The scenery is lush and there are banana and coffee trees, and lots of orchids and bamboo – but still no humming birds or parrots. Our cook has come up from behind and forged ahead so lunch is waiting when we meet up at the clearing around 1230P. The toilet tent is a real luxury, and the grass seems so soft I begin to take off my boots – but Javier scolds me back into them with warnings of round worm or some such parasite– ew!
Other high points today - there are some scary bridges I need help crossing. Once Javier almost goes over the edge trying to help me and I see our lives flash before my eyes. Yikes.
There is a bull being tugged to market along our same path by two men who frequently stop to rest and drink some sort of alcohol they have along, which then requires a bit of sleep before proceeding. They have to pass us several times, and that bull is not kidding around!
This afternoon we reach an actual road where a real van meets us (it seems strange!). There is a lot of interesting maneuvering as our gear is switched from horse to van, and then a little ceremony (always involving coca leaves) to say goodbye to our horsemen who have been terrific hauling our gear around. The van is a bit rundown – the back windows are all cracked and held together with some kind of tape. We can’t believe they can fit everything on the roof rack but indeed they pile it all on (as the van sinks lower to the ground). Then we all climb in, Augusto (the cook) too – and one of the horsemen climbs to the roof to hitch a ride… I can’t believe this vehicle can withstand all the weight but it does. After a short drive we are dropped at the trail head leading to our final lodge. Many porters appear to take our bags It is a humbling experience to struggle with walking uphill while sandal clad men and women are hauling our 30 pound duffels and tearing up the path, leaving us in the dust. Along the way there are banana trees and coffee plants, and some Inka steps for us to climb. After about 30 minutes we arrive at Lucma Lodge where our bags are already placed in our rooms waiting for us. No hot tub here, but it is warmer so we do not need it to take the chill off. This lodge is lovely, maybe our favorite. We are down to 2185 meters altitude, about 7,000 ft. Tonight everyone has wine or beer and even pisco and grappa…
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