Monday, August 6, 2007

Sat August 4 - On to Ourigane


This morning we pack up and check out of the Kasbah. Turns out everything in the minibar was included in the price of the room – quite a unique system (though no alcohol is available here; it is all coke and other various sodas and water). If this were New York they might ask if you would like a cab; At the Kasbah when you are ready to leave they ask if you would like a mule to help get your luggage down the hill. We have 3 to carry the bags for the 9 of us. At the bottom of the hill we board a van that takes us to the trail head. It is hot, so hot today I think it must be the highest temperature we’ve had – but in the end I think it’s just humidity added to the mix. Anyway we begin the climb – another one of Marks ‘gentle rises’ that leaves us panting and on the verge of heat stroke (OK I’m exaggerating slightly). Through the narrow pathways of a village there are various doorways and occasional women and children to say bonjour to. It’s very fun when there are kids who giggle helplessly when you smile or wave at them. Sometimes if they think you’re about to snap a picture they shriek and run. Photos are still a big no no.

Finally the path levels out and I can begin to catch my breath – it is distressing to not have this get any easier after all these days of trekking (hasn’t it been months now??). When we reach a large flat field of thyme and juniper trees (and some shade!) we stop for lunch. When we break like this we all tend to remove our shoes and socks – to let everything including our feet to dry out – and this is no exception. I prop my shoes behind me for a pillow and lie down, not caring at all about all the goat droppings all over the place. It feels fantastic to be in the shade and lying down!! Oh the small pleasures in life. Lunch is great as usual (have I mentioned the Pringles which are ever present and a favorite even though we all say we never eat them at home). As we are eating sure enough the herd of goats shows up with a couple of boys behind. I can never get enough of watching the goats. The rest in the shade gives us new strength – then the realization that it is all downhill from here is even better. Another two hours of scrabbling over rocks and dusty mule trails and we come to a salt mine where small pools are evaporating leaving the salt behind. Then another level 30 minutes to the road where Mark calls for the van to come pick us up. We are pretty darned tired and sweaty (though the cloud cover has saved us this afternoon for the most part). My shoes, once mossy green are now a Moroccan red from the mountain dirt. When we pile into the van Lasen and Saaid say they are unexpectedly leaving us here, and there is a sudden goodbye. They have been a great addition to our experience, and Mira gives Saaid her plastic bracelet with the saints on it to go with his Jesus hat.

The van delivers us about 10 minutes later to our hotel with its ‘bucolic rose gardens’ which it certainly has – along with tennis courts, pools, horseback riding, and spa. We’re divided between napping in our air conditioned rooms and the pool – two things that make us feel we have certainly reentered civilization – then later all meet up for dinner. The meal is served out in a garden of roses with a small fountain, a low table with beautifully embroidered tablecloth and napkins, and two firm cushions each for us to sit on. Even with our achy muscles having a hard time getting into position it’s a magical setting.After salads and tajines and orange mousse for dessert (YUM) we all head straight to bed.

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