Oukaimeden

…but what a night’s sleep! The rooms have no a/c or fans and there is quite the heat wave rushing through even the mountains here. The front part of the room is a slanted chalet style, all glass, designed of course to create heat in the winter. The windows open but the cooler night air doesn’t enter the room unless the door – on the opposite side of the room – is open too. So it’s hot, but if you lie very still it is tolerable. Once in awhile there is a puff of cooler air. Then around 1am the dogs start. Seems like a veritable village of dogs, howling and barking all night long. Someone must be in heat. It is almost a relief when it’s time to get up. After breakfast we gear up for our hike to Tizi Atar – Mark has pointed out the switchback path on a distant mountain, something we have to squint to see. I don’t think I really believed that’s where we are headed but sure enough – 3 hours later – we made it to our destination, a high mountain pass with breathtaking views in all directions. The path was actually a road – rocky and dusty but easily manageable. We started at 8,000 ft and moved pretty slowly on the inclines. Well I should say the adults did, the kids were like mountain goats sprinting up the path, making us look bad. Along the way we met up with Lasen, Mark’s sort of point man though he kept up the rear, and then later – after the mules passed us laden with the makings of our lunch – Saaid, the best cook in the High Atlas according to Mark, and a devout Muslim with a wry sense of humor as illustrated by the cap he wore which announced “Follow Jesus”. The day is beautiful and we enjoy the varying views, passing tiny groupings of stone houses, going higher and higher. As we turn the final corner there is the lunch awaiting us – a table set with tablecloth, chairs, glasses – delicious Moroccan salad of chopped peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and asparagus with cumin sprinkled on top, fantastic cheese, fresh bread, and canned mackerel and pate (goose pate is very big here). Sitting felt great though I had really hoped to lie down for a rest – but alas the ground was covered in rocks with no soft area to be seen. I managed a 5 minute power nap while sitting up in my chair, knowing I had to shore up for the trip Down which always turns out to be harder than going Up. Indeed, though it was easy to stop for water, or to apply sun block or to take a photo, that brief pause would suddenly leave 50 yards distance between me and those ahead. And there was no slowing the kids, those little mountain goats. Finally, finally we could see the hotel again, and then the road just kept on going. Was it really this far on the way up? By the time I got to the hotel it was all I could do to make it to the elevator to ride two floors to my room. Leo was already asleep; I showered then passed out as well for a good 3 hours. I think we woke up in time for dinner and bed!