White water rafting

Sunday August 24 -

It thundered rain all night long - how could so much water come form the sky?? It is an amazing thing to witness. I had a guest in my room last night, a moth the size of a dessert plate (I told someone a frisbee but that was an exaggeration). I coaxed him outdoors since I didn't want to accidentally crush him (he kept landing on my pillow) It was an odd pleasure to discover him outside my door this morning waiting for me I guess. My moth buddy.

I can't say the sky was clear blue exactly this morning but it wasnt raining as we left for the rafting trip. ON the way we stopped at a small stand and tried the local specialty pejibaye, the fruit from the same tree that we get hearts of plam from (we ate those later at lunch!) It gets boiled with salt, split open and served with a dab of Costa Rican mayo (I am definitely heading back to the store for some of that mayo, very limey!) It was one of those great unscheduled moments, and we loved it, even those wo did not like the pejibaye.

Then on to our appointment with adventure! For the first time we could feel the sun on our skin, and it was a perfect two hours of rushing through the water - not so high as to oblitrate the rapids, but high enough to have a few thrills. The guides are entertaining, the fruit snack fantastic (watermelon and pineapple, did you know Costa Rica is the world's largest exporter of pineapple?) - the water was not exactly warm but 'refreshing' and I did in fact swim. Even if you didn't swim there was no way to avoid becoming totally drenched, and better to jump in than be tortured by splashing. The lunch deserves the label of best ever - make your own tacos and loads of hearts of palm on the side. Yum.

Then on to the school where we me the two pen pal boys - a wild free for all soccer game ensued, no teams, no sides, about 40 kids going wild. The girls in our group stand back not daring to join in. The boys come back to the hotel with us and we take a tractor ride to a pool by the waterfalls - the ride is rough, the pool and setting is pretty, the rain starts again....

The moth is still outside my room, clinging to the wall. Maybe I'll let him back in tonight.

Tomorrow to Tortuguero!

Sunday August 24

I am in fine shape to meet up at 730am with the group for the drive to Sarapiqui ... The day starts off fine but I quickly learn how weather changes in Costa Rica depending on where you are. As we rise into the mountains (did I know La Paz is a cloud forest??) the clouds descended on s, the cold micty air closed in and the rain came down. By the time we got out at teh waterfall gardens it was pouring. We waied - but nothing changed, so we plowed ahead. The good part was, we had the place to ourselves since no one else was silly enough to attempt it. We went through the exhibits - mostly under cover which was good - but came out the other ens to do the walk to the waterfalls. Under the bit of cover provided by the forest we went slowly over the slippery walkway. Even though we were soaked to the skin - even plastic ponchos do not keep you dry in this kind of rain - we *loved* the forest and the waterfalls. Lunch was a bit chilly - some other group had taken over the fireplace so we could not get close to dry off - but the food was good and spirits were high. Fair to say by the time we got back to the bus we were all ready for a nap - is that not the point??

After making a stop at a local grocery store - a favorite thing of mine - we arrived about 4pm at our hoel, Sueno Azul. After crossing two narrow wobbly bridges (holding breath) I felt like I had arrived to another world. It is a bit like camp - forested, damp, rustic and cozy all at once, many small low buildings scattered, each with a few rooms for guests. A large common area set above the pool and jacuzzi, a pond, the river, and further on are trails and ... who knows what mysteries lay beyond? The river is a constant rushing noise - but the rain begins again and the torrents drown out all other sound for the rest of the day and night. Dinner is good, and the dampness begins to feel normal.

San Jose and the wedding

From Saturday August 23 –
This morning I had a walking tour of the city of San Jose, with a man named Julio who does this now for the love in his heart. He knows everything about the history of San Jose, and all of Central America! This city is quite a sad place really, no one lives here anymore, all of the interesting architecture has been torn down in favor of pretty revolting modern stuff thrown up with no thought to any city planning. Many homeless on the streets, lots of litter and abandoned buildings - just sad. I got a lot of intersting history, but really understand why we do not include this in our tours. Not many people would enjoy it! I had to check out of my room - which is why I'm all dolled up, sitting in open air cafe at the Gran Hotel Costa Rica, one of the oldest buildings in the city. It is pouring rain and hot, Costa Rican style. I have a chilled glass of white wine and a plate of sea bass ceviche, and am in heaven.

I am picked up at 3P to go to Sole's wedding. A traditional Costa Rican wedding, just great, in a lovely church with Sole looking so beautiful. Of course I did not understand a word of it, but then love is a matter of the heart is it not?? Words are not necessary.

This was followed by a full night's dancing and partying ina unique art hotel. I met many people I only knew via email before, that was fun. The food and dancing were great, and I was in bed asleep by midnight?

Pura Vida Costa Rica!

from August 22 2008

Logan airport has never been so crowded – at 5am there is barely room to walk nside the terminal. The line snakes back and forth countless times, and it is hard to even find the end of it – which adds to the overall chaos as hundreds of people drag luggage and whiny children through the crowds. It takes almost 90 minutes to reach the counter and check in my bags 0 then a quick dash to the gate to board the plane. First time in my life it required the whole two hour advance the airlines asked for.

So I was starving when I got onboard and searched for the hard boiled egg I packed. Unfortunately with all the tossing around of bags it was flattened, with the shattered shell thoroughly imbedded in the egg. Inedible. I resorted to the $4 on-board breakfast of a packet of cheese and crackers, with a few nuts and raisins thrown in. The alternative looked like it was mostly Oreos and Cheez Its which made me wonder what American Airlines thinks the definition of ‘Breakfast’ is.

Landing in Miami I headed to the next door terminal for my connection to San Jose. It must have been a mile walk at the very least, up and down stairs, around construction, down long hallways. How do children and the elderly do it?? Many food options along the way, so I grabbed a Chili’s salad to eat later. No internet, not even for a fee. This plane was full too - but for the seat between me and the woman by the window. We were very lucky for that but tortured by the distinct urine smell in our row (made note to check for lingering odor on me afterward) Everyone was so excited to be going to Costa Rica (except the toddler who screamed nonstop for 2.5 hours) so there was lots of chatter and celebratory drinking, sort of like college week

So I arrived without incident. The San Jose airport was a treat – simple and small, I got through it in no time, There is even a bathroom right in the luggage collection area, so convenient! The bathroom was spotless, with a woman mopping the floor every three minutes. It smelled delicious like oranges –well, really it was like orange creamsicles. Cuca met me in full Thomson Family Adventures regalia – the sign, the hat, the jumping and shouting with excitement. I joined her on her carpool loop, Costa Rican style – to her home for two kids, then to school for the eldest, then to her parent’s to drop them off. We finally settled at Hands, where we had an appointment adjacent to Sole’s for manicures and pedicures. For over two hours we were pampered – massaged, scraped, rubbed and painted, until our nails looked perfecto! Though I feared the total bill (there was water, tea, and Sole’s bottle of Boone’s Farm Strawberry wine graciously served as well) the total per person was a mere $22. No tipping. Wow, I might be moving to Costa Rica. Afterwards Cuca and I joined her husband Danilo at his new Caribbean restaurant for some fantastic ceviche and rice and beans with chicken. The hot sauce was perfecto, and the waiter had a flair that made the whole experience special. I made it to my hotel about 930P – 1130 for me on Boston time – realizing I was ready to collapse. I think I was asleep before my head hit the pillow.

Wednesday, December 5 – trying to get back to Boston!

This is the reminder that one must always be patient with travel, and getting there and back is always half of the adventure:

-4A cab to airport for our confirmed 7A flight to Miami

-5A arrive at check in to find out.....

-Flight delayed until 11A

- A Long Breakfast – I remember French fries and lots of espresso

-Wandering aimlessly through airport shops

-10A go through security and head to gate

-11A Run into Sue who is on her way to her noon flight back to Quito;

-She lets me use her iPhone to call home, a definite high point to the day's journey;

-I take 800 mg Ibuprofen for the shooting pains in my knees

-Larry is very patient through all of it.

-1130A we board our flight; I think I immediately fall asleep

Naturally we have missed out conveniently timed connection in Miami, but we have been resceduled and in fact between customs and security and getting from one terminal to another there really isn't time to spare. We board, starved, but by the time the flight attendants get to us the food is all gone (oh except for pringles and chocolate bars which we pass on)

-930pm we land in Boston but one of my bags is missing (though it does show up the next day) How does that happen?? It's cold, a harsh end to a great vacation

- 11p arrive home, really late to bed, really early up for carpool and work and life.....

Tuesday December 4 – on to Lima

This morning there was time to visit the Spanish Cathedral in Cusco – an amazing place – before our ride to the airport. An easy flight to Lima, followed by a cab ride to our hotel in the Miraflores section of the city. The Hotel Antigua Miraflores is a cute place (this is a photo of it), but a far cry from the 5Star treatment we have gotten used to. I think the 3 floor walk up was the hardest part – oh my knees!

We find delicious ceviche for a late lunch, and get a cab to the market area which is overwhelming in size and scope. Every type of Peruvian product and souvenir one could imagine, and we spend hours inspecting all of it. My legs are tired and my knees are beginning to hurt. Larry discovers he left his Amex card back at the lunch restaurant; they are closed by the time we return to get it. He remains cheerful! Later, a light dinner at a nice restaurant close to the hotel, and fun conversation with the bartender over nightcaps, refills free. Early to bed, wake up call at 3:30AM!

Machu Picchu stonework